I’ve been practicing dermatology for a long time, so I remember when the word “serum” was more of a marketing term than a meaningful term.
Now that I’m in my 50s, I’ve gotten to say things I never thought I’d say. I’m really excited about what’s on the shelves this spring.
Spring has arrived, and with it a familiar sense of renewal not only in the air, but also in the doctor’s office and, increasingly, in my own daily life. What shocked me the most this year was science. For the first time in a long time, I feel like the formulas I’m trying (and recommending) have caught up to their promise.
Try YSE Beauty Xtreme Glow Peptide Plumping Serum ($68). This was the first product in years that made me stop and reconsider my longtime skepticism. For the first time, I can say “serum” without hesitation. For decades, I have spent hours every day explaining to patients that many serums contain no true active ingredients. They were certainly elegant, but often superficial. This is different. Introducing a serum with active ingredients to hydrate aging skin and give it the glow it needs. It’s effective, thoughtfully formulated, and refreshingly priced without feeling exclusive.
The same philosophy continues with YSE Wide Awake Brightening Eye Cream ($68). As I’ve gradually moved away from everyday makeup, I’m looking for products that do more than just cover up. My goal in my late 40s was to step away from everyday makeup, and this helped me achieve my goal. The variety of shades, hydration, and formulation of real active ingredients make it versatile. Before you know it, you may find yourself blending two shades together. What I may have thought of as unnecessary effort when I was younger, now feels like a satisfying little ritual. And, as I often tell my patients, what works for the eyes often works for the upper lip line as well. That rule hasn’t failed me yet.
Plus, there’s a scientific innovation with Obagi’s Nu-Gen Cellular Renewal Serum ($175). The name is a mouthful, but the ingredient NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) caught my attention. It’s not just trendy. It is biologically related. Again, this is a serum that makes sense. Understanding how a product works will make it more satisfying to use it. I actually gave this book to my husband as a joke. Because it’s a proud book that goes back six years. There’s a joke around the house that he’s actually getting older. We may have let one of his secrets slip away.
Of course, not everything new has to be complicated. We’re equally impressed with how brands like EltaMD refine their essentials. Daily moisturizers and sunscreens are targeted in a way that reflects the way we actually practice dermatology, tackling rosacea, acne, and aging as separate conditions that require specific active ingredients. I often walk patients through the options because it can feel overwhelming to them, but the intent behind these prescriptions is exactly the direction modern skin care should be heading.
When a patient asks about an ingredient that’s “a little concerning,” I smile. Because trends come and go, but biology doesn’t. Peptides and NAD+ may be getting all the attention right now, but sunscreen, antioxidants, tretinoin, and retinol are still essential. The basics are still important. They always will.
And then there’s the reality of mature skin. This is something I talk about not only clinically but also personally. “Menopause is cruel,” I tell my patients with a candor I might not have had 20 years ago. But it also reminds them of how far we have come. My approach broadened over time. Hormone balance, sleep support (magnesium glycinate is essential for sleep), and consistent hydration all play important roles. I’ve even developed small daily preferences that support the big picture, like electrolyte drinks and clean energy supplements.
However, the focus is still on skin care. One product I can’t resist recommending is the YSE Take It Off Gel-Oil Cleanser ($48). The hydration added to my skin was noticeable. At this stage in life, cleansing is no longer about removing, but preserving and replenishing. Similarly, Obagi’s Elastiderm Neck and Décolleté Concentrate ($260) has also found its way into my routine. Rollerball application feels almost luxurious, but the results speak for themselves.
And perhaps what I’ve come to appreciate most at this stage in my career and life is balance. I am a science-driven physician by all accounts. But I also learned that joy is important. As a double board certified M.D., I sometimes enjoy a Woodford Reserve Bourbon Margarita with friends. Because when you feel good, it shows on your skin.
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